Almonds, Anchovies And Pancetta

Last but not least, Cal Peternell, New York Times bestselling author and Chez Panisse’s

longtime former head chef, gives a great big nod to vegetables in Almonds, Anchovies, and Pancetta. Peternell dubs this book one that’s “kind of vegetarian,” for “those of us who love vegetables so much that we sometimes honor them with small gifts, bringing offerings of toasted nuts, salted fishes, and of sweet cured pork bellies.” This is how people have been eating for much of history, Peternell says.

In the book’s introduction, Peternell explains precisely why he highlights these three ingredients as vegetables’ ultimate sidekicks—they contain salt, which seasons, boosts flavors in, and preserves foods. And while the three staples are not exactly interchangeable, he suggests that many of the recipes could be made without the anchovies and pancetta, for people who prefer to stick to plant-based eating. Before each of the book’s three sections, which highlight one of the titular ingredients, Peternell tells heartening stories of the ingredient’s meaning in his own culinary journey, and provides clear instructions on how to prep it before cooking (hint: you’ll likely need a mortar and pestle!).

And then the recipes are at once comforting and elevated: Carrot and Almond Soup with Saffron and Coriander; Baked Stuffed Vegetables with Almonds, Currants, Saffron, and Bread Crumbs; Thick Toast with Kale, Cardoons, Garlic, and Anchovies; Bagna Cauda Salad with Optional Truffle Upgrade; Roasted Pancetta-Wrapped Asparagus with Mustard and Egg. Peternell's is kind of a veggie-friendly book, but in any case, we'll gladly cook from it.

The book is out now, and you can buy it here.